Friday, October 5, 2012

HD Whaaaa?? Makeup tips for HD makeup application

Welcome to the not so new, new makeup milennium beautynistas.  In case you haven't noticed, there has been a full on makeup over haul in film and television.  And who is the culprit?  More like what is the culprit, and the answer is (drum roll) HD cameras.  HD (high definition) cameras are now being used in over 80 percent of productions these days.  Whether it be fashion, television, film, or even bridal, these HD cameras have taken over the industry.

Stolen from the ever so handy Wikipedia,  "High-definition video is video of higher resolution than is standard. While there is no specific meaning for high-definition, generally any video image with more than 480 horizontal lines (North America) or 570 lines (Europe) is considered high-definition. 720 scan lines is generally the minimum even though many systems greatly exceed that. Images of standard resolution captured at rates faster than normal (60 frames/second North America, 50 fps Europe), by a high-speed camera may be considered high-definition in some contexts. Additionally, non-interlaced video (also called progressive scan) is sometimes considered high resolution, even at standard resolution and frame rates."  Ummmm yea, so if you are anything like me and that meant nothing to you, here is the run down on what high def really means, or means for my industry.  HD cameras tend to pick up far more than a regular camera.  If you have a pimple, we are going to see it.  If you have a fly away, we are going to notice it.  If your shirt is lime green stripes, we are all going to go blind.  It literally shows no mercy, but some genius out there has invented it deciding that the picture will appear much more clear for our viewing pleasures.

So what does this mean for makeup?  Where do I even begin.... 

First off we are so used to seeing or thinking that any face that goes on camera needs to be layered and layered ( and layered some more) with makeup to hide any blemish or imperfection.  And then, obviously, no one can look pretty with out 4 pounds of bright makeup colors painted all over their faces.  Well on top of that, the new high definition cameras pick up EVERYthing, so now we need to layer more right?? WRONG!  Yes, it's true HD cameras do pick up everything, and makeup is no exception.  If you layer on loads of makeup, the camera will instantly pick it up, leaving you wondering when in the world you changed the channel to Ru Paul's " Drag Race".  With these cameras, less is definitely more.  With this being said, you can't help but wonder, how do these TV personalities still look so annoyingly flawless??  Do they never have a pimple or blemish?  Well the answer is yes, they do.  And these days it is all about blending techniques, using softer colors, and literally working with what you got!  Not to mention that these people have highly trained professionals doing their makeup applications so don't be fooled or discouraged.  Here are a few tips for do's and don'ts with HD cameras.

DO use a primer, eye and face primers can literally be life savers when it comes to these eagle eye cameras.  A primer is going to coat the skin and create an even palette for the makeup to be applied more smoothly. It evens out skin tones and reduces pore visibility so that the makeup has a more evenly distributed appearance.   Primers are also known to help fill in any lines and wrinkles giving you a younger, fresher look and they will help to make your makeup last all day.   DO use a foundation that has more of a sheer coverage to eliminate any cakeyness on camera.  Now you are probably thinking what if someone has bad skin or blemishes?  Well leave the correcting and cover up of all those imperfections to the concealer of your choice and let the foundation be a nice sheer over lay bringing it all together.  DO highlight and contour!  Highlight the areas you want to enhance on the face using a slightly lighter foundation than the skin tone.  Contour with a slightly darker shade on areas of the face including the jaw line, under the cheek bone and the sides of the nose to create structure.  When highlighting and contouring though, DO make sure to blend!  Blending is such an important step with HD and especially with highlighting and contouring.  I can not say it enough, everything must be blended, blended, and more blended from the eyeshadow to the blush to the foundation.  THIS is what will make the difference in you having a flawless fresh finish as opposed to a mess of choppy  lines and colors.  DO use a translucent powder.  Regular powders can again tend to come off as cakey and tend to show pores more frequently.  Try to find one that is "talc free" because talc reflects light and can give off a chalky finish (eew).  A translucent powder usually comes in the form of a lose powder, and though sometimes messy if not careful, will definitely give you a more natural, sheer, oh so photo finish!  

DON'T use anything too shiny or shimmery.  Those cameras will pick up that shimmer like a Red Socks fan at a Yankees game, don't do it.  The shimmer can not only look just plain out terrible if applied incorrectly, but can also read as shine or sweat on camera.  SOO, all you brides and bridesmaids out there, ever wonder why you looked so sweaty in that wedding photo that was taken in the middle of February??  I am sure it had everything nothing to do with that bronzer you loaded on prior to the pic ;)  DON'T use anything waxy!  If attempting to fill in or shape brows, stick to a pencil or brow powder.  DON'T use glitter, do I really even need to explain that one?  I sure hope not or else I should just stop now, as you have learned nothing.  DON'T use any crazy vibrant eye colors.  If it is a photo shoot or fashion show that requires it, then it is to be expected, but on television it can be completely distracting. 

Now, nobody panic, you do not have to throw out your entire makeup bag or have a professional makeup artist do your makeup for you ever to appear again in a photo.  Most makeup lines these days have  gotten with the times, stepped up their game, and created some HD products.  Though some are better than others, and those inparticular tending to be the more expensive ones, they all do ultimately have the same effect.  If you are looking for makeup for your self and don't want to splurge, go to your local CVS and browse the makeup aisle.  There will be plenty of HD options there for you.  If you are a makeup artist or guru and need something a little more reputable in your kit, check out Sephora for a variety, or one of my favorite HD makeup lines, Eve Pearl!  Some of my favorite go to's for HD products are listed for your beautynista convenience below...

Primers
-Eve Pearl Priming Moisturizer
-Smash Box Photo Finish

Concealers
-Eve Pearl Salmon Concealer sets (her signature product)
-Makeup Forever Liquic Concealers
-Benefit Erase Paste

Foundations
-Eve Pearl Dual Foundation (great for highlighting and contouring as each foundation has a lighter and darker color
-Makeup Forever HD Foundation

Powders
-Eve Pearl Pressed Powder
-Eve Pearl Loose Setting Powder
-Makeup Forever HD Translucent Powder
-Mac Translucent Powder


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